苗族银饰设计的毕业论文

The innovative application of Miao embroidery in modern clothing design in Guizhou Province Summary:Guizhou Miao embroidery is one of the intangible cultural heritage in the world. It is a wonderful flower in the history of Chinese embroidery and has a unique artistic charm. Miao embroidery is a cultural product created by the people of Miao nationality who exert their wisdom and diligence in the life of nature. It is the carrier of Miao culture. The application of Miao embroidery innovation in Guizhou in modern clothing design is beneficial to the establishment of unique artistic style of modern clothing, the integration of traditional technology and modern design, and the inheritance and development of traditional technology.Key words:Guizhou Miao Embroidery; modern clothing design; innovative application IntroductionMiao embroidery in Guizhou Province is wonderful, but with the development of the times, Miao embroidery skills gradually decline, is facing the challenge of metamorphosis and regeneration. Designers in the new era should shoulder the responsibility of inheriting and developing the Miao embroidery techniques. The Miao embroidery is a source of inspiration for modern fashion design because of its rich and varied shapes, colors and techniques[1].In the new era, how to apply the innovation of Guizhou Miao embroidery to modern clothing design, how to inherit and innovate, how to collide traditional techniques with modern design to create new sparks, and how to make Miao embroidery glow with new vitality, etc. , it is worthy of our deep thought and study. 1. Main characteristics and distribution of Miao embroidery in GuizhouMiao embroidery in Guizhou is very particular. Different needlework methods should be considered according to the expression of different objects and artistic effects. Some needlework, some needlework, some needlework, and some needlework involve thread winding, weaving and knotting each other. Guizhou Miao embroidery mainly flat embroidery, lock embroidery, braids embroidery, seed embroidery, plate embroidery, broken thread embroidery, tin embroidery and so on, embroidery design texture rich three-dimensional sense. There are many branches of Miao ethnic group in Guizhou, and different regions have different representative types of embroidery: the most common flat embroidery, mainly distributed in southeast Guizhou Taijiang, Shidong, Rongjiang and Danzhai County. Flat embroidery single needle single thread, pay attention to even and even stitch. CREPE and braid embroidery are mainly distributed in Xi River and Leishan. It is one of the most unique traditional embroideries. The craft is complicated, first the silk thread weaves the small plait, with the traditional pattern pastes the cloth as the bottom, the small plait sews on the pattern, each sews a stitch to fold, causes the small plait drape three-dimensional, like the relief. Dazi embroidery is mainly distributed in Taijiang, Dazi is to wire around a few times and then insert the base cloth to play a knot in one heart, a Zhang Sengyou effect. Broken thread embroidery, mainly distributed in Taijiang, is a very special embroidery method in flat embroidery. Broken thread embroidery divides ordinary silk thread into 8 to 12 strands of fine thread, and then uses fine threads to make flat embroidery. It is exquisite, exquisite and luxurious. It is a fine work in Miao embroidery. Tin Embroidery is distributed in Jianhe. The Intelligent Miao people cut tin foil into thread and embroider it on cloth. The geometric pattern is the most fashionable style of embroidery[2].Miao embroidery in Guizhou Province is rich and colorful, with distinctive features, which congeals the national spirit and historical and cultural connotation of Guizhou. 2. Development Status of Miao embroidery in Guizhou ProvinceWith the development of social economy, there are fewer and fewer young people learning embroidery skills[3].Miao embroidery process innovation and age is proportional to the younger generation of the Miao is the carrier of process inheritance, lack of innovation will lead to Miao embroidery culture and environmental adaptability[4].The lack of innovation ability has become a big problem in the development of Miao embroidery technology.Colorful Guizhou has unique tourism resources. In recent years, the rapid development of Guizhou tourism industry has led to the development of tourism products, and the design of tourism products with Guizhou characteristics has become a hot spot, including the development of Guizhou Miao embroidery tourism products with Guizhou characteristics, for example has the Miao nationality embroidery clothing, the bag, the small ornament and so on. Since 2015, the international ethnic and folk cultural tourism products fair of Guizhou has been held, fully displaying the colorful and varied forms of Guizhou, displaying ingenious ethnic cultural products and unique ethnic cultures, to promote the protection, inheritance and scientific and reasonable industrial transformation of national folk arts and crafts, so as to promote Guizhou mass entrepreneurship and innovation, further enhance cultural self-confidence, and enhance the soft power of culture. The opening of the fair has brought a new opportunity for the innovation and development of Miao embroidery in Guizhou. 3. The application of Miao embroidery in costume design in Guizhou Province3.1The application of Miao embroidery in traditional dress in Guizhou ProvinceMiao embroidery is not bound by natural form, pay attention to emotional expression screen, rich in strong artistic appeal. Abstract methods are widely used in the modeling of Traditional Miao costumes. The image of virtual animals and plants of the Miao people in Guizhou Province means that in the long course of history, the Miao people have naturally transcended the process of imitating reality in the face of various external circumstances, the abstract form of the object in the Miao embroidery to provide a broad space for its creation.In the traditional costumes, the Miao people in Guizhou have rich and colorful embroidery colors and techniques, which are full of the unique artistic language of the Miao Culture. In traditional costumes, Miao embroidery uses unique embroidery techniques to decorate costumes, which are often decorated on the body, placket, collar, cuffs and Hem of traditional costumes, the texture effect in the decoration increases the layering, massiness and artistic sense of the dress. Women dress up, complex exquisite needle will focus on the collar, cuffs and other parts, highlighting the focus of clothing, and ensure the harmony and unity of clothing and accessories[5].3.2The application of Miao embroidery in modern clothing designThe modern clothing design uses the Miao nationality traditional color matching method for reference, the decorative color mainly gives priority to the bright color, forms the intense contrast color. Highlight the decorative patterns of clothing, traditional Miao costumes into modern clothing. In the modern clothing design, the traditional national cultural elements are increasing, the unique style of Guizhou Miao embroidery has created the traditional significance modern fashion works in the international modern clothing design application[6].In 2009, the famous domestic designer Lin Xuefei designed the evening dress with the Miao nationality characteristic by the tin embroidery element, and displayed it at the European wedding dress conference, which caused a great sensation overseas. Miaos'clothing elements are widely used in modern fashion design in European and American fashion shows. Modern women underwear design is often used embroidery techniques, highlighting the Miao embroidery close to the heart, showing the feminine soft and sexy[7].

苗族人认为银饰能驱除邪恶，防阴气，所以都热衷于戴银饰。有头饰，颈饰，胸饰首饰等。都是银匠精心打造而成，平日里他们对银饰呵护备至。银饰图案多样，散发出浓郁的乡土气息和民俗文化内涵。

我国少数民族居多，而且不同民族都有他们各自的文化习俗，而且在这背后并不是毫无根据的展示民族文化，而是经过了数千年甚至更久的年头淬炼而成的，而贵州的苗族就是其中一个，苗族女性经常佩戴着一些银饰品，非常美观，只不过这不是最主要的原因，而是由于“人走则财随”的这一说法。

首先就是和他们自古以来的迁徙历程离不开关系。这个过程对他们民族的传统文化以及生活习俗等方面都产生了重大的影响，而且在这个过程中，他们身上佩戴的银饰品的图案、形状等也都不断发生着变化，那么苗族人最一开始对于银饰可能还是没那么在意的，但是在迁移过程中，他们把银饰品当成了自己的文化信仰，甚至一种财富来看待，毕竟在行走过程中，总要有一些资产，否则自己怎么管理自己的衣食住行呢？由此苗族人开始了他们佩戴银饰的旅程，虽现实但也是真实的写照，到了今天，这种思想对他们来说也是根深蒂固了。

另外，他们身上佩戴的银饰品形状各有千秋，而且符号也有所不同，去市面上或者是网上查找的话，能看到众多款式，让自己挑花了眼。其实这也和他们的文化有关，苗族人自行走世间各个角落，导致族人非常崇拜自然，而且相信世间万物皆有灵，由此设计出了许多蝴蝶、枫树等形象，并且还有其他动物的图案，比如说龙，在他们心里也是神圣的存在。

女性通常佩戴的银饰都是发簪、项链、耳环和银衣片等，走动的时候身上也会作响，异常好听，只不过这门手艺随着时间的发展，很少有年轻人还愿意去学习了，不过也有一小部分人愿意在这门手艺里融入创新思想，渴望能让苗族银饰再次得到传承。

银帽，又称凤冠，是苗族妇女最为华贵耀目的一种纯银饰品，一般前部造型较为丰满，后面以长布绿带两头打结将凤冠缚紧于头上。此冠图案内容丰富，最前面一朵大银花，花朵下面排列12匹小马，每匹小马四蹄上都各分挂3个小喇叭，共12个，这样一顶凤冠上要垂吊上150个小喇叭，花朵周围则有飞鸟、银凤、银蝶、花草等，犹如百鸟飞翔于花丛之中，寓意富贵、平安、幸福。凤冠的制作工序精细，工艺十分考究，一般要经过数十次的加工焊接，要在体积不大的凤冠架上焊接上银花、银雀、银蝴蝶、银铃等饰物，少则几十件，多则几百件，重约1580克。

银帽又名凤冠，是苗族女性最奢华、最耀眼的首饰。它的正面通常是丰满的，头上绑得很紧，两端都有一条长长的绿带。皇冠的设计内容丰富，正面有一个大银花，下面插花12匹小马，每匹小马的蹄子上挂着3个小角，共12个，所以一个小角有150个，挂在花周围的有银凤凰、银蝶、鸟、花等，像鸟儿在花丛中飞翔，象征着富贵、和平与幸福。

凤冠的制作工艺精致，制作过程非常精细。一般需要经过几十次加工和焊接，银花、银鸟、银蝴蝶、银铃铛等装饰物应焊接在小凤凰冠架上，至少几十件，最多几百件，重量约1580克。就像佩戴银器意味着人口可以发展，人口数量可以繁荣。银饰是苗族传统装饰的精华，是苗族文化的象征。它体现了苗族的灵魂，反映了苗族的历史声音。

人们死后，会用银饰埋葬，这样死者就可以顺利回到祖先的出生地，与祖先团聚。苗族银饰上的崇拜和巫术反映十分丰富，直接影响了苗族银饰的造型，产生了鼓钉银额带、鼓钉银手镯、鼓钉银梳等银饰。苗族人相信一切锋利的东西都能驱邪，尖角的鼓钉象征着闪电和光明。或者银角头饰，形状像牛角，但像龙角。在苗族民俗中，龙主要是作为保护神出现的，几乎所有人都认为有龙保护着他们的村庄。

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首先，巫文化主宰着苗族银饰的精神内涵，各种银饰图案中，寓含着巫术、信仰的图像占据装饰物的主要位置。第二，苗族银饰中对苗族长期征战、迁徙历程多有反映。第三，苗族银饰反映出封建社会中缺乏的平等观念，只要在一个社区生活，人人都可以穿着佩戴一样的银饰。