关于国外研究苗族书籍的论文

The innovative application of Miao embroidery in modern clothing design in Guizhou Province Summary:Guizhou Miao embroidery is one of the intangible cultural heritage in the world. It is a wonderful flower in the history of Chinese embroidery and has a unique artistic charm. Miao embroidery is a cultural product created by the people of Miao nationality who exert their wisdom and diligence in the life of nature. It is the carrier of Miao culture. The application of Miao embroidery innovation in Guizhou in modern clothing design is beneficial to the establishment of unique artistic style of modern clothing, the integration of traditional technology and modern design, and the inheritance and development of traditional technology.Key words:Guizhou Miao Embroidery; modern clothing design; innovative application IntroductionMiao embroidery in Guizhou Province is wonderful, but with the development of the times, Miao embroidery skills gradually decline, is facing the challenge of metamorphosis and regeneration. Designers in the new era should shoulder the responsibility of inheriting and developing the Miao embroidery techniques. The Miao embroidery is a source of inspiration for modern fashion design because of its rich and varied shapes, colors and techniques[1].In the new era, how to apply the innovation of Guizhou Miao embroidery to modern clothing design, how to inherit and innovate, how to collide traditional techniques with modern design to create new sparks, and how to make Miao embroidery glow with new vitality, etc. , it is worthy of our deep thought and study. 1. Main characteristics and distribution of Miao embroidery in GuizhouMiao embroidery in Guizhou is very particular. Different needlework methods should be considered according to the expression of different objects and artistic effects. Some needlework, some needlework, some needlework, and some needlework involve thread winding, weaving and knotting each other. Guizhou Miao embroidery mainly flat embroidery, lock embroidery, braids embroidery, seed embroidery, plate embroidery, broken thread embroidery, tin embroidery and so on, embroidery design texture rich three-dimensional sense. There are many branches of Miao ethnic group in Guizhou, and different regions have different representative types of embroidery: the most common flat embroidery, mainly distributed in southeast Guizhou Taijiang, Shidong, Rongjiang and Danzhai County. Flat embroidery single needle single thread, pay attention to even and even stitch. CREPE and braid embroidery are mainly distributed in Xi River and Leishan. It is one of the most unique traditional embroideries. The craft is complicated, first the silk thread weaves the small plait, with the traditional pattern pastes the cloth as the bottom, the small plait sews on the pattern, each sews a stitch to fold, causes the small plait drape three-dimensional, like the relief. Dazi embroidery is mainly distributed in Taijiang, Dazi is to wire around a few times and then insert the base cloth to play a knot in one heart, a Zhang Sengyou effect. Broken thread embroidery, mainly distributed in Taijiang, is a very special embroidery method in flat embroidery. Broken thread embroidery divides ordinary silk thread into 8 to 12 strands of fine thread, and then uses fine threads to make flat embroidery. It is exquisite, exquisite and luxurious. It is a fine work in Miao embroidery. Tin Embroidery is distributed in Jianhe. The Intelligent Miao people cut tin foil into thread and embroider it on cloth. The geometric pattern is the most fashionable style of embroidery[2].Miao embroidery in Guizhou Province is rich and colorful, with distinctive features, which congeals the national spirit and historical and cultural connotation of Guizhou. 2. Development Status of Miao embroidery in Guizhou ProvinceWith the development of social economy, there are fewer and fewer young people learning embroidery skills[3].Miao embroidery process innovation and age is proportional to the younger generation of the Miao is the carrier of process inheritance, lack of innovation will lead to Miao embroidery culture and environmental adaptability[4].The lack of innovation ability has become a big problem in the development of Miao embroidery technology.Colorful Guizhou has unique tourism resources. In recent years, the rapid development of Guizhou tourism industry has led to the development of tourism products, and the design of tourism products with Guizhou characteristics has become a hot spot, including the development of Guizhou Miao embroidery tourism products with Guizhou characteristics, for example has the Miao nationality embroidery clothing, the bag, the small ornament and so on. Since 2015, the international ethnic and folk cultural tourism products fair of Guizhou has been held, fully displaying the colorful and varied forms of Guizhou, displaying ingenious ethnic cultural products and unique ethnic cultures, to promote the protection, inheritance and scientific and reasonable industrial transformation of national folk arts and crafts, so as to promote Guizhou mass entrepreneurship and innovation, further enhance cultural self-confidence, and enhance the soft power of culture. The opening of the fair has brought a new opportunity for the innovation and development of Miao embroidery in Guizhou. 3. The application of Miao embroidery in costume design in Guizhou Province3.1The application of Miao embroidery in traditional dress in Guizhou ProvinceMiao embroidery is not bound by natural form, pay attention to emotional expression screen, rich in strong artistic appeal. Abstract methods are widely used in the modeling of Traditional Miao costumes. The image of virtual animals and plants of the Miao people in Guizhou Province means that in the long course of history, the Miao people have naturally transcended the process of imitating reality in the face of various external circumstances, the abstract form of the object in the Miao embroidery to provide a broad space for its creation.In the traditional costumes, the Miao people in Guizhou have rich and colorful embroidery colors and techniques, which are full of the unique artistic language of the Miao Culture. In traditional costumes, Miao embroidery uses unique embroidery techniques to decorate costumes, which are often decorated on the body, placket, collar, cuffs and Hem of traditional costumes, the texture effect in the decoration increases the layering, massiness and artistic sense of the dress. Women dress up, complex exquisite needle will focus on the collar, cuffs and other parts, highlighting the focus of clothing, and ensure the harmony and unity of clothing and accessories[5].3.2The application of Miao embroidery in modern clothing designThe modern clothing design uses the Miao nationality traditional color matching method for reference, the decorative color mainly gives priority to the bright color, forms the intense contrast color. Highlight the decorative patterns of clothing, traditional Miao costumes into modern clothing. In the modern clothing design, the traditional national cultural elements are increasing, the unique style of Guizhou Miao embroidery has created the traditional significance modern fashion works in the international modern clothing design application[6].In 2009, the famous domestic designer Lin Xuefei designed the evening dress with the Miao nationality characteristic by the tin embroidery element, and displayed it at the European wedding dress conference, which caused a great sensation overseas. Miaos'clothing elements are widely used in modern fashion design in European and American fashion shows. Modern women underwear design is often used embroidery techniques, highlighting the Miao embroidery close to the heart, showing the feminine soft and sexy[7].

（一）传承人现状人是苗族古歌的创造者、拥有者和传承者。随着时间的推移，台江县的大多数传承者都已年迈，甚至像王安江、刘永洪、王明芝等歌师都已故，这种人亡歌灭的险境是必须认识和重视的。由于苗族古歌依靠口传心记的方式，演唱的人大多为目不识丁的苗族歌师，而解读人却是一批文化人。所以作为传承者的歌师其生活的环境、社会角色、家庭结构、受教育程度、人生观价值观等都会影响苗族古歌传承的面貌。如王安江老人，他与苗族古歌的相遇是偶然还是必然呢？这与他生活环境是分不开的。王安江老人生于1940年，台江县台盘乡人，在外面学习后因母亲病重等原因最终回家务农。在他生活的那个年代，苗寨还有很多歌师，他夜以继日的学习古歌，并以乞讨的方式收集古歌。在岁月中他守住了贫穷与孤独，被村里人看做是另类，但他仍然坚定：“把苗族古歌传承下去，决不让古歌失传”。在进行古歌的整理过程中，他也会对歌词进行修改和调整，加入了他对生活的体验，他一共整理出版了12部苗族古歌，收集研究资料10余万字。正是因为拥有像王安江老人这样有信念和情怀的优秀歌师，才保证了苗族古歌的代代相传。（二）传承渠道现状苗族古歌传承的方式分为祖先传承、家族传承、师徒传承及民俗传承。祖先传承与“崇巫尚鬼”的苗巫文化密切相关，必须在专门的仪式场合中才可以演唱，能不能唱古歌与会不会唱古歌，要看歌者是否受到祖先的保佑与祝福。家族传承是最古老与直接的传承方式，是由家族血亲传承下来的，这种传承方式将会造成家族里面有很多歌师，在这种环境中会有一种文化意识与传承的使命感。师徒传承较于家庭传承突破了血亲的界限，扩大了传承范围。但它是需要拜师仪式的，而且这个仪式非常的严格且神秘。三、有效保护台江县苗族古歌的措施（一）扩大苗族古歌的受众群众和空间社会经济、科技信息的迅猛发展，使得人与人、国家与国家间的交流变得更加密切。苗族古歌也走进人们的视野被外界所熟知。也让大家看见了它的文化价值，贵州在逐渐城镇化的这个过程中生活节奏越来越快压力越来越大，众多的民族文化在逐渐回流，希望回归自然生活。这种需求与供给的关系逐渐形成了民族文化的发展热潮。在现实中我们也发现，苗族古歌有远古的历史记忆遗存，也有受当下的生活场景的影响，这和生活在城市中的人们的需求是相契合的。所以在受众群众与空间上，苗族古歌不仅仅面对的是台江县的人们，而且还可以面对城镇的人甚至国际友人。（二）有效发挥自然基础的作用“物质基础决定上层建筑”，不论是传承还是发展都需要物质作为积淀。而对于苗族古歌来说，自然环境就是它的立足地，它以其物质资源为苗族古歌的传承和创新奠定了坚实的基础。所以当我们在对苗族古歌进行传承与创新时，首当其冲应该发挥自然基础的作用，自然是滋养苗族人们的土地，而古歌依靠人作为传承的媒介并且也是人们创作的精神源泉。没有自然作为基础，就没有今天的苗族古歌。（三）建立健全传承人保护机制苗族古歌属于口传活态文化，需要依靠人来进行传承，它与人的关系是非常密切的。而现在苗族古歌的传承人大都年事已高，年轻人又都不愿意参与学习，所以对传承人的保护是势在必行的。在政府的参与下，许多例如王安江、刘永洪等老传承人的努力与影响下，收集了大量书面文字与古歌材料构建传承链条。针对苗族古歌中涉及的歌词、曲调、形式以及仪式过程都应当加大保护，政府出台相关的扶持政策。对像王安江老人、刘永洪老人这种一生致力于苗族古歌的传承与保护并且获得了较大的成就的人应当给予奖励，并且加